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Wednesday, June 28, 2006

I is a grownup!

I started my internship on Monday at a corporate law firm and its an experience unlike any other. I have an office. I have a window. I have a cushiony swivel chair and a big wooden desk. I wear suits and "work clothes". I type on the computer and write memos. I check my email and talk on the telephone. I have a one hour lunch. I'm used to chalkboards, and kidney shaped tables with seven year olds sitting around coloring and scrutinizing double digit addition. I'm used to dropping students off to lunch (if I'm lucky enough to have my own lunch break that day) and scarfing down food in fifteen minutes hoping I don't get buzzed because Joey sprained his ankle as he attempted to kick Stacey in the knee for a french fry. Part of me misses the teaching thing but this is different. I like it too. It sounds funny to those who do this day in and day out but its all so exciting in its differences. I feel like a real grown up in my black high heeled pumps typing away on the computer and sipping coffee! I am quite surprised since I fancy myself "uber-flower-power-child-save the world type" in utter bliss at the ACLU (which I loved, working at the ACLU is awesome!) But this... this is so different from anything I've done or imagined and that makes it exciting. I am a kid playing grown up. And having fun doing it.

I have two more posts I'm hoping to write on Brasil. I sat down to write one today and felt butterflies because I I am going to write about the favelas and they are a very emotional topic for me. It may take me some time to get it out. I hope I will.

In other news my 101 in 1001 is moving along. Who'd have thunk? :)

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Monday, June 26, 2006

Buzios

We took a little detour the last weekend in Brasil and headed off to Buzios. I like to think of it as an early anniversary trip. (July 4 = Four Years Insh'allah!)

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Friday, June 23, 2006

Rio De Janeiro in pictures..

For those bored to tears by Brasil, just one more week or so more I promise and it'll be all out of my system... This is my way to share and preserve the memories which if not captured will fade quickly with each passing day. I wanted to upload both Rio and Buzios before the weekend since my internship begins Monday but tonight I only had time to share Rio. Buzios deserves to be shared since Buzios is gorgeous.. a glimpse of heaven placed for a sneak peek upon earth. (Thanks Sobia for showing me how to do this!)

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Wednesday, June 21, 2006

This has been a public service announcement**

I have been raving about the beauty of Rio, the rolling hills, the cliffs and water crashing upon its shores and I suppose I have a bit of 'splainin to do about the other side. (Not the favelas. I am itching to write about them but this is more along the lines to anyone who may be reading this saying "Wow Aisha describes Rio as heaven upon earth and I am booking tickets tomorrow!") Well please refer to expression at left. Still smiling as not to scare you (it really is pretty. It really is fun. It really has fantastic mangos) but just gotta discuss a little about the safety thing. I waited till after I returned to write about since loved ones read this blog and I wouldn't want to frighten them while I was still there.

The Theft Thing. Theft and violence is a reality in Rio. Two people in my class had their passports stolen out of their rooms by maids who came in to clean. If you dont have a safe in your place to store your valuables go without the maid service. My American Express Card was stolen but it was sort of my own fault as I left it next to the computer and walked away to get a drink of water. When I turned around it was gone. I found out that its a big business to steal cards and then sell them. Doesnt make a great deal of sense to me because as soon as I realized it was gone I cancelled it. Dont most people do that? Incidentially it was quite funny when talking to AmEx: Amex:"We can overnight you a new card to our office in Rio" Me: no, thats okay just send it to Georgia" AmEx:"No we can send them to Rio!!" Me: No really its okay my husband is coming next week and I dont need the card. AmEx: "Oh that's fabulous we will overnight it to your house and your husband can bring it to you" Hmmmm this all left me wondering, exactly why is Amex sooo eager to get the card back to me. Me thinks I should think about my spending habits! :)

The mugging
. When you're in a city for a week and get your bearings you begin to feel comfortable. You can't forget you are still a tourist. One student was walking back from the internet cafe with groceries not too late in the evening and was followed home and assaulted and suffered a bruised eye and a mild concussion. One thing is that you see other people around and get a false sense of security that you are safe. Most people really wont go out of their way to prevent an assault on another. Especially when you know the one assaulting is likely armed.

The shooting.
last Wednesday a few classmates an my professor went to take a tour of a law firm in Botofogo a ritzy part of Rio with a beautiful beach across the street from the firm. One guy and girl from the program decided to take a few minutes to cross the street to take a picture of the beach. As they stood on the median between the beach and the firm two armed men, one on a bike holding a pistol and one on foot began circling them demanding cell phones. As the students walked away they began firing and one of the bullets went through one of the students ankle clean through. Its one thing to hear about a shooting. Another to see the hole in the ankle that the bullet left and the expression of the person shot... The story made headline news in Brasil and even internationally because the location of the shooting was very unusual. Everyone says these things can happen in Atlanta or any other major city. While I know that is true I cant help but feel a chill at the coicidence at all the "this could happen anywhere" happening dead smack in Rio.

The corrupt cops. So I went out with friends to Lapa which is supposed to have nice restaurants and cafes but upon arriving I quickly saw that it was really just clubs and bars and public drunkneness so me and a friend decided to book it and took a cab back. Alhamdullilah we got back okay but that same night two cabs with four students in each cab were pulled over by police supposedly searching for drugs. They forced them out of their cars and went through their things and physically searched them. They let them go but not before taking $200 from a girls purse. Our professor discussed with us to be careful after the incident because apparently cops have been known to plant drugs. Sometimes the cops need to be feared more because their shady practices can have legal implications on your liberty.

In conclusion Rio is a gorgeous city and it is worth a trip if you were thinking about it. You just have to keep both eyes open and follow common sense and not go to the beach after dark or any place with less people. Just safer. Though to be honest Kashif and I often went to the beach at night but we always made sure there were other people like a group of volleyball or soccer players out and that the area was very well lit. I dont mean to scare anyone but since I'm relayingbmy experiences I should share both the good and bad. Thought I'd get the bad out now.

** As an interesting sidenote I have heard a lot of crime stories that happened to people in Rio. A LOT from everyone to my flight attendant to professors but every last one happened to men. Its interesting because for some reason at least I always thought okay if there's a guy along with the group we'll be safe but they seem to go after men more than women. Proffesor was saying that the culture encourages working for your money. Stealing from a man is like you "earned" it.

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Tuesday, June 20, 2006

Brasil and Futbol

I'm back. I was only gone for one month but its strange how you get used to things. I got used to my routine and it was a weird feeling waking up from a nap today here in the US feeling homesick for Rio. Mystic soul captured the feeling exactly in his comment: "...as he descended the hill, a sadness came upon him, and he thought in his heart: How shall I go in peace and without sorrow? Nay, not without a wound in the spirit shall I leave this city......Too many fragments of the spirit have I scattered in these streets..,...Nor is it a thought I leave behind me, but a heart made sweet with hunger and with thirst..." I miss a lot of things but there is much to be cherished in the US as well and its good to back too.

Mezba was curious about the world cup frenzy in Brasil. One word: Wow. I knew Brasilians love soccer as was evident by all the basketball and tennis courts converted to soccer fields but Wow. Its unlike anything I have ever seen in the United States as the decoration, marketing, and excitement seems to supercede US frenzy during the last ten shopping days before Christmas. Everything from Blockbuster to banks are decked out in yellow and green. Streets are lined with green and yellow with people in green and yellow jerseys as everyone counts down to game day.

And then its game day. A day unlike any other. Everything shuts down. No cabbies. No grocery stores. 24 hour gym? closed. Rio De Janeiro is a ghost city save the bars and restaurants you have to reserve seats well in advance peppering the streets with fans glued to the screen. And when Brasil scores, you can't hear anything but screams and laughter and cheers. People are hugging and dancing and kissing and blaring horns.

Now that I am back in the US its really strange to see the lack of interest in the World Cup. I half expected our own streets to be flanked in red white and blue watching the game with avid interest. But they are not. Most of the world is passionate about futbol but the US is strangely absent in the frenzy. Is it because its not conducive to commercial breaks so its just not marketed to us? Anyhow here are some pictures in a feeble attempt to capture the frenzy for Futbol in Brasil. Any picture can be enlarged when clicked. I even threw in a few pics of our highly tanned selves. Desis are quite the paradox. The sun is avoided like the plague for deathly fear of tanning yet only five minutes of exposure can deepen us three shades. It never ceases to tickle me.



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Saturday, June 17, 2006

Adieu Brasil

Sorry for being MIA this week. Kashif came into town last Saturday and I spent the rest of the week getting ready for my exam and showing Kashif the city I briefly called my home.

Tonight is my last night in Brazil and i write from a charming pausada two hours north of Rio in the city of Buzios where we reached Friday evening. I can“t believe tonight is my last night in Brasil and I am equally surprised at the mixture of emotions. I know that this trip is one that has changed me. Its shown me perspective and insights I was not necessarily searching for but found me anyhow. Though it seems as though i really do work undercover for the department of Tourism for Brasil I would temper it with that my eyes are wide open to the not so rosy parts. I just want to wait to paint the entire picture when I return.

I am sorry for the lack of postcards and infrequent updates during my time here. Things were much busier than I could possibly have imagined and the internet not quite as accessible as i thought. As for the blogging I have been keeping a journal and when I return I am eager to start up loading pictures and excerpts from my journal for anyone interested in reading it. Many things Ive been waiting to share but watnted reliable internet to sit down and do so.

So dearest Brasil, tomorrow at 10pm I board a flight and leave you. You are not perfect yet despite your flaws I love you just the same. I will miss your stunning natural beauty, delicious coffee, and warm kind people. I hope one day life gives me an opportunity to see you again. It was an experience I will not soon forget.

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Friday, June 09, 2006

Slice of Raisin Pie

It is interesting that after a post of how I fit in, how I am just one in a crowd of many that I had an interesting discussion with a friend over dinner yesterday night. He prefaced that he did not mean to belittle my experience as a minority in the United States but for the first time in his life he saw and felt what it is to be a minority. My friend and the others I was with were blonde with blue eyes and very fair skin. Though Brazilians do come in all shapes colors and sizes, my friends are unavoidably American. He discussed how it felt when people look at you in a peculiar way. Make assumptions about you. He speaks Portugeese but people automatically assume he cant and break out into English. In restaurants he sometimes gets rude service by staff who are nice to natives but short with him assuming he is another brash American. I have respect for him that he chose to take this opportunity to see things from another perspective because not everyone is doing so.

In "The Late George Apley" George describes visiting Europe with his family as traveling like raisins in a pie. You can cut a slice and put it in a different place but the raisin stays where it is. Some people on the trip are like raisins. Today a child at an NGO we were visiting had a temper tantrum and based on a quick observation an untreated but severe behavior disorder. The screams and moans were haunting but what do some of the law students do at this moment? Eagerly rush out to snap what was unfolding. Two minutes later another child began climbing an unstable ladder and instead of trying to get him off they reached into their bags for cameras laughing: "Look at that one" If you would use the same language and engage in behavior appropriate only if visiting the zoo exhibits, check yourself. Sometimes we act like we are in little bubbles and other people are "them" and we are oh so different from "them" I cant imagine someone coming into my classroom and snapping pictures of American children misbehaving or suffering from behavior disorders. It also saddened me today at the NGO where you are confronted with orphans rescued from the street, you see their livign conditions which are sadly better than what they had before and there are people who still complain. Who sigh complaining that they are missing optimal beach time. What is registering before your eyes that leaves you only focused on how this eating away at beach time despite the destitution around you

I walk through these streets and see beauty but I also see stark poverty. I see people who lack access to water and sanitation. And these same people are hauling 50 pounds of wares on their backs struggling through the beach hoping to feed their families that night. I sit under my umbrella on the beach and watch them walk by and i think about their life. How many mouths is he feeding? Is he happy? Going to Parachi (see below) and seeing the island of the Caraceros how can I complain that my shower is lukewarm, or the bellman doesnt always understand me. When I do complain it should be tempered with perspective. I like to think I'm tolerant. That I am not judgmental on people. That I have an open mind. But seeing the behavior of my peers today I felt judgmental. I could not see the other perspective. My friend Nicole said that there are all types of people and they happen to be different from me. Instead of judging I should accept that not everyone has similar views on life. I'm sad at their behavior and I'm sad at my own judgments towards them.

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Tuesday, June 06, 2006

Your English is Very Good!

I am sitting in the icafe right now after having spent two hours at Ipanema beach reading the latest Harry Potter book and observing life around me. Today on my way down the elevator to go to the beach a man getting on the elevator with a lot of luggage accidentally bumped into me. He said "excuse me" which in any other context would make me politely smile and say "no problem" but here in Brazil where hearing random English spoken is like a drop of ice cold water on a hot sunny day I looked at him astonished but simply said "oh no problem" which made him in turn look at me astonished. "Wow" he said "Your English is very good." I looked at him puzzled and then realized and explained that I was from the US. Then he frowned and said "oh ok visiting your family I suppose?" hahaha I loved it. He thought I was a Brazilian raised in the US visiting my extended family back home. I'm telling you its pretty fun to be mistaken for brazilian, my favorite mistake was when I was at a fair examining a dress and someone in Portugeese approached me and asked if I worked there.

Today I went to the beach by myself and sat on the sand and read my book and watched as the vendors walked all around me selling and cajoling others to purchase their wares. At one time one vendor went to each person and showed his purses, looked at me, skipped over me, and continued on. Its funny because if I sit with other study abroad students I do get approached but on my own I am brazilian and there's just no use trying to get me to buy a thing!

But one vendor knows. Or so I believe. This man wears a whole Arabian Nights type of outfit. I figure he's trying to look Arab. He has a huge sign on his back advertising his beer with huge letters saying he is MUSTAFA. Today I looked at him as he walked by and couldnt help but grin at how random his choice in attire was. He paused to look curiously at me then down at his sign and pointed to the name Mustafa and began laughing. He shook his head as though to convey something and then smiling trudged on. I cant help but think he knew. I may have to snap a picture of him next time I see him.

Well off I go now. Hope you all are doing well.

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Sunday, June 04, 2006

Pictures

Today was a better day, the sun was out and my paper due tomorrow was done long ago. The program is two sets of modules lasting two weeks each so some really good friends I made over the course of the two weeks left and their absence is certainly felt. But today was gorgeous and was the first day I managed to head over to Copacabana which certainly merits the title of one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. The rest of the day was spent on Ipanema beach under an umbrella watching the waves as I sipped my Guarana light. I was quite easy to spot as the sole fully clothed individual under an umbrella upon Ipanema beach. I am dying to write about the favela situation which is what a lot of my learning is based upon but I want to wait till the next module to share the full magnitude of it. So in the meantime here are some pretty pictures of pretty Rio. All pictures can be clicked on to enlarge.

This is a view from Copa Cabana. What you see upon the hilltops are the favelas which compose 1/3 of the population of Rio who live in those shanty towns. Its very sad but its also ironic that the poorest of Rio have the most beautiful views of the ocean and the mountains. I find it interesting how poor and rich are juxtaposed as they are. You can also see the green flag of brazil because the world cup is going on and the atmosphere, decorations and advertising is tantamount to American advertising of Christmas. It~s incredible.




Step out of my apartment building. Walk half a block and this is what you find. This is Ipanema beach with the two brothers mountains overlooking it and the walking path I take every morning around sunrise.






Copacabana beach. The mountains, the white grainy sand and the waves are so breathtaking I dare you to stand upon this beach and feel bereft.





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Peaks and Valleys

Its been a very long week that flew by quickly and I have a lot I could write about like the halfway homes we visited and the former ganster boy now reformed and soaping dishes in the sink with his flower apron or the fabulous eateries I discovered or boutique shopping and cute skirts but today is a valley among the peaks that classify Brazil to me and I need to let it out.

Today I again directly pointed to the item I wanted in a restaurant. They repeated my order as I placed my finger on the food and they bring me the more expensive item. I look at it confused and say no. I point to what I pointed to before. They nod and seem to say this is it. IT IS NOT WHAT I ORDERED. I changed rooms because my former room had a lot of issues but the new room does not have a direct line. Kashif calls and tells them the room number in Portugeese. Earlier my mom was able to connect speaking English now he rambles to Kashif in Portugeese and refuses to connect though Kashif is even using his portugeese phrase book. This cuts me off from my world at home. I understad that I am in a foreign country. I understand that they may not understand. But everytime there is a misunderstanding somehow I end up jipped. Dont know why it doesnt cut the other way. I sincerely believe that a lot of people play ignorant when in fact they are more aware then they act. I know htis because I dont speak Portugeese but hand gestures and a word here or there and expression gets me by in Brazil. Its convenient to stare blankly.

I miss cooking. I miss hot showers. I miss baked cheetohs. I miss cell phones and direct lines. And internet access that doesnt require a gym. Most of all I miss Kashif. I walk around Rio with my friends but he is notably absent. I wonder which direction to turn (for those who know me and understand my spatially challenged nature) and I cant help but think Kashif would know where to go. I miss having someone to come home to. The empty quiet apartment is getting old. A spouse is a quiet warm place to land where you dont have to worry about the next thing to say and whether it is witty or not, you can bring them home but not worry how the house looks or whether they will overstay their visit or whether you overstayed yours because they are your home.

Feeling a little ungrateful since I live in one of the wealthiest neighborhoods in South America and can see the slum favelas teetering over the hillsides but I think everyone can feel a little homesick sometimes.

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